I want to do the same thing, idk how to go about it.

 

My boyfriend just put a box with a 10" JL subwoofer and mounted the amp in the trunk. He is a pro, and everything is hidden - no wiring hanging out anywhere. I can have him log on tomorrow and walk you through it. It took him maybe an hour or 2 to run the wiring.
I have a 2011 v6.

It didn't appear to be a matter of being difficult, so much as taking the time to do it the 'right' way instead of the fastest way.

 

That honestly be awesome if he could.

 

If you could have him do that , it would be amazing.

 

Most stereo systems are straight forward. I think most people go the RCA output route, then just run that to an amp. You can buy a kit with a little box that taps into your factory wires for the output/conversion. I'd offer more info, but I've only installed a couple stereo's in my time and diagnosed a broken headunit. I'm not a huge audiophile.

 

I just need to know about the panels. Im going to put a galaxy s tablet in mine once I figure out the way the panels come out

 

Good luck. I leave the interior to the pro's. Any way I put it back in place, is not the way it's supposed to be.

What's your plans with the tablet? Are you going to flush mount it into the dash?

 

Hey there fella's, im the boyfriend... lol... A little about me: I used to run a Mustang shop in Va Beach called, MAS Racing Development... We did everything from the small bolt on stuff to building full out race cars!!! Some of our work has been seen in MM&FF and other mags... One of my good friends, Sean Kelley has THE fastest, with a stock transmission, 2013 Mustangs in the country!!! (you can youtube him later... lol) so thats a bit about me and mine...

So about your amp install...
Things you will need:
Amp wiring kit- (depending on how big your amp is, will determine the gauge of your power wire)
L.O.C. Line Output Converter- (if use'n stock head unit)
Wire cutters/crimpers
Wire butt connectors
Socket set
Electrical tape
zip ties
The install...
Start by disconnecting the battery... Standing on the pass side of the car, use your left have and run it down the fire wall. about half way down you will feel a rubber gromit, pull that out and now you have access into the cabin, so you can run your power wire to the trunk. run your power wire in and behind the the carpet on the pass side. pull the wire down and out the pass door. pull up the pass door floor molding/floor panel(this will be tough, but it will pull up, and it will clip back in when you're done). pull carpet back some and run your power wire down that line. pull rear seat over with your hand and run power wire inbetween the seat and the sidewall. pull the seat-back down, so you have access to the trunk. (if you are use'n a after market head unit, run your RCA's and remote wire, down the same line as your power wire) Go to the trunk and pull your carpet out, this way all your wires will be under the carpet and out of sight when you are done. (if you are use'n the factory head unit, now is the time to connect you L.O.C. to one of the rear speakers. this is where you will need the butt connectors and tape) Once that is done find a spot for you ground wire. any metal surfice will do, just make sure you sand down any and all paint where your ground will be. zip tie your power, ground and remote wires together. replace trunk carpet. set amp up where you want it and make sure that your wires and RCA's will reach the spot you want your amp. now bolt it down. place a small slit in the carpet so you can run your wires and RCA's from under the carpet to your amp. now go back and button up the floor molding/panel. and now you have a clean professional install!!! good luck and happy motoring!!!

If you need any more help, just get ahold of my lady and we will do what we can to help...:headbang:

 

Good luck. I leave the interior to the pro's. Any way I put it back in place, is not the way it's supposed to be.

What's your plans with the tablet? Are you going to flush mount it into the dash?

It's going to be flush mounted and everything. Just use a router if the panel I buy for the nav isn't big enough. I work with wood and such so I know what I'm doing. I installed my last system in my last stang and it looked pro quality. Just take your time do you don't end up breaking a panel or slitting a wire

 

@cherry_strang's boyfriend thanks for taking the time to write that up .

 

yes thank you very much. this will help a lot with installation

 

My man said no problem - and let him know if you have any questions or need any more help.

What kind of amp & speakers are you putting in/?

 

so basically you get a line out converter and that hooks up to one of the rear speakers or both? then that goes to your amp the amp just gets hooked up like a regular amp would and boom you have subs? would you be controlling the amount of bass from your stock head unit? im sticking with the stock head unit

 

Yeah but in a premium you have to tap into the amp under the driver kick panel or one in the back to have proper bass since it has low pass filters and stuff in it. Crutchfield

 

I didn't see this mentioned anywhere but if your looking for a switched power source for the remote wire the traction control fuse worked for me, I forget what fuse number it was but its in the panel on the passenger side kick plate

 

The antenna is a powered antenna. It has a switched power wire that makes a PERFECT remote turn-on. Just below the antenna under the side trim panel.